LOMBAK AGAIN

1. Nov 30 (Day 47), we left Dompu early to catch the ferry back to Lombok. We had early lunch at Besar and managed to get to Pato Tano at 1.30 pm and catch the 2 pm ferry. This ferry was an old ferry and I had to reverse some 200 m from the shore into the ferry as it had only one ramp door. The strain contributed to my need for regular massages. At about 3 pm, Mt Rinjani was in sight and we were promptly back in Lombok at 3.30 pm.

2. After landing, we headed north along the coast towards Bayan, in the north Lombok. Soon, we were passing paddy fields which were cultivated around the many stones. It was quite a sight. The area could have been part of the sea before. It was a scenic drive passing one village after another, and their paddy fields.

3. At Bayan, we decided to depart from the main road and head south towards Senaru. Located on the north slope of Mt Rinjani, it is one of the launch points for trekking up Mt Rinjani. From there, we would have a wonderful view of Mt Rinjani. We got there at about 5 pm, and we were not disappointed. We stayed at Pondok Senaru for 200 000 Rp a night (about US$22). From the hotel, we had a great view of Rinjani. I love this sunset view of Rinjani with the rays emanating from its peak.

4. We only intended to do a overnight stop at Rinjani. We were told that trekking up to the peak of Rinjani would take at least 3 days and 2 nights out in the field. The hotel staff tempted us by telling us there is lake up there which one can fish, a hot spring and a baby volcano. It was not possible for us to do this this time, as we had promised our daughter to be back in Bali on 2 Dec. We promised ourselves that we shall return.

5. The morning view of Rinjani was just as spectacular. I did qigong at 6 am facing the mountain. The rice terraces illuminated by the morning sun looked beautiful.

6. At 9.30 am, we were ready to continue our journey along the coast, round Lombok. Before we did, Li Hoon had a picture with the friendly staff from the hotel. Unfortunately, it was low season and they had little to do.

7. Along the shady drive were many paddy fields. Some were ready for harvesting.

8. At Sira, we started to check out hotels to stay for the night, before we head for Bali the next day. We wanted a less crowded place to stay and avoided Sengigi. We checked out The Oberoi and Hotel Tugu Lombok but at more than US$200 a night, they were above our budget. Nonetheless, Sebastian Liehold, the Director of F&B of Tugu was very kind to show us around the very interesting hotel and showed us the whole range of rooms they had. We were told that the owner of the company is a keen collector of Indonesian arts and antiques and he used them to design and decorate his hotels, including moving a wooden temple from somewhere to his Sira property. It is a strongly thematic hotel which some would appreciate.

9. After some negotiation, we were delighted to check into Qunci Villas at Mangsit for US$80 a night. A chic hotel, we had a beautiful room on the first floor (I particularly like the colourful painting on the wall), with a spacious balcony and a comfortable day bed. The pool area, in my view, is the hotel's main attraction. Well designed deck chairs line one side of the pool; and facing west they were popular spots to sit and enjoy the great views afforded by the setting sun. I particularly like this sunset shot, with the stone fountain pot in the foreground, as if the light was emitting from the pot. I spent quite a bit of time in the pool.

10. In the evening, we had Indonesian dinner at Yessy Cafe at Sengigi. Mardi is the owner of the restaurant and Yessy is the name of his daughter. Mardi is 2nd from the right. He took a long time to look at my car and took picture of it with this handphone camera. He then came talking to me, telling me that he had not seen a car like mine in Indonesia, liked the look of the car and whether I was prepared to sell my car. He looked serious but was probably joking. Told him I can't as Indonesia Customs requires that I reexport my car out of Indonesia when I finish my holidays. He gave us a complimentary dessert and wanted to give us 2 coconuts to put in the car. A very nice fellow.

RURAL SUMBAWA

1. Between Nov 27 to 29 (Day 44 to 46), we visited Sumbawa, an island east of Lombok, 1.5 hr away by ferry. We had originally planned to stay 3-4 days, but ended up staying 3. After Sumbawa, we planned to return to Lombok and not go further east to Flores. Li Hoon was not keen to subject herself to 8 hours of ferry ride to Flores. Also, it would be quite a stretch with only me driving.

2. Sumbawa is bigger than Bali and Lombok combined. Its 1.5 mil population is largely Muslim. Historically, 2 major linguistic groups dominated the island. One group centered in the western side of the island speaks Basa Semawa, which is close to the language spoken in Lombok; the second group in the east speaks Nggahi Mbojo, a very different language. Sumbawa Besar in the west and Bima in the east, the 2 largest towns on the island, are the focal points of Sumbawa.

3. The ferry to Pato Tano on the west coast of Sumbawa was really quite easy; paid the ticket at the gate and we were directed into the ferry. The car deck of the ferry was one-third full. The ferry was clean. It looked new. One way ticket was 322 Rp (about US$30+) for the car (and the passengers inside). The ferry departed Lombok at about 2 pm. We had a great view of Mt Rinjani as the ferry headed west towards Sumbawa.

4. Sumbawa looked beautiful, with mountains in the horizon and offshore islands in the foreground fringed with strips of white beaches, set against the sky and sea in different shades of blue, increasing the level of anticipation as the ferry approached Pato Tanto. As we approached the shoreline, we could see that the hills looked bare and dry, void of vegetation.

5. Over the 3 days, we traveled from Pato Tano to Sumbawa Besar, some 72 kms away, 1.5 hr drive; another 200+ km to Lakey Beach, along a scenic drive along the coast near the neck of Sumbawa and after venturing northwards towards Calabai for about 2 hrs and then deciding to give up and backtrack; and exploring the very challenging 120 km coastline NE of Dompu through towns such as Soromandi and Kilo which we didn't expect to be this tough.

6. Over the 3 days, we stayed at Laguna Biru (300 000 Rp, about US$ 33), reputedly one of the better hotels in Sumbawa Besar, located on a hill overlooking the port; at Aman Gati (235 000 Rp, about US$26), certainly the best hotel at Lakey Beach; and Samada Hotel (110 000 Rp, about US$12), again reputedly the best hotel in Dompu.

7. Overall, our observations of Sumbawa are as follow:

(a) Other than the Newmont mines, Sumbawa's economy appeared to be largely fishery and agriculture-based. Along the roads we traveled, we could see miles and miles of agriculture land, and from time to time, passing through fishing villages. The 2 Aussie Newmount expatriates we met at Laguna Biru told us that they mine for gold and copper in Sumbawa.

(b) The agriculture land we saw was mostly brown and dry, especially in western Sumbawa, in what looked like dried paddy fields; in great contrast to the green paddy fields we saw in Bali and Lombok. A local told us that it gets drier as one moves from west to east from Bali.

(c) Quality of the main road, from Pato Tanto to Dompu to Bima, was really quite good; sealed, mostly one way either way. Normal cars should have no problem. Off the main trunk road, it is less predictable. We tried traveling north to Calaibai, a town opposite Moyo island where Amanwana is located, and after a short stretch the road became very challenging and we gave up and backtracked. The coastal loop we took on the 3rd day to Soromandi and Kilo was about 120 km and it took us half a day. Without a 4x4, we would not have survived. It went from a relatively good road to what looked like a pedestrian trail.

(d) Sumbawa has significant tourism resources that have yet to be developed. It has a beautiful coast line, with many pretty beaches that are not developed. Other than Amanwana on Moyo island (the Aman resort that few can afford)and Lakey Beach (for surfers), we are not aware of other tourist destination. The tourism industry was practically non existent. Hotels were not easy to find in Sumbawa. If you find them, they are likely to be in the main towns like Sumbawa Besar, Dompu and Bima, the 3 largest towns in Sumbawa; and be prepared that they are likely to be very basic and we were already staying in the better hotels. The hotel we stayed in Dompu did not have power and water until 10 pm and it did not provide towel or soap. Lakey beach was reputedly to be a good surfers destination. Yet, other than the few basic hotels along the beach, there was really nothing else there. In the 3 days we were in Sumbawa, we met a few expatriates, but did not encounter any tourist. It was so unlike Bali which was overcrowded with tourists, or for that matter Lombok which was becoming crowded in some areas. It is however an opportunity to develop tourism sensitively while keeping its authentic charm.

(e) We did not see any slum in Sumbawa. In rural areas, they lived in stilt wooden houses or in brick houses for the richer ones, but they all seemed to have their own homes. People were hospitable and helpful and cheerful. Kids, like kids elsewhere, have their fair share of fun. We were there on weekend and we could see many families, especially the kids, enjoying themselves on the beach and in the water. Unlike some cities in Java, or even in Bali, where we encountered beggars at traffic junctions or along the roads, we did not encounter any at all in Sumbawa.

8. Over the 3 days, we had a number of memorable moments that would remind us of Sumbawa for a long time to come:

(a) We had a wonderful Ikan Bakar at a fishing village called Goa, not far from Laguna Biru. Li Hoon asked one of the hotel staff direction to a Ikan Bakar 99 restaurant mentioned in Lonely Planet. With our clumsy dialogue, he thought we were just looking for ikan bakar and led us on his motorbike to this coastal fishing village where they were many ikan bakar stalls. It was obviously a local destination and we were the only 2 foreigners there. At the stall, some 8-10 ladies came to join us. They were obviously curious about these 2 foreigners in a car with foreign number plate. They were very friendly. We communicated in a mix of broken Bahasa and broken English. Somehow we seemed to understand each other. Or least we thought. Ikan Bakar is really BBQ fish. We had a fish and 2 cuttle fish, with their wonderful chilli sauce for 40 000 Rp (about US$4+). But, it was the really the fun of talking to the local ladies that was fun and memorable. They had no hesitation with foreigners, very friendly and curious.

(b) From Besar to Dompu, especially the coastal stretch at the neck of Sumbawa, the coastal scenery was spectacular. The road curved up and down the hills near the coast and in the many bays we passed there were beautiful beaches, fishing villages and fish ponds. The area have all the physical attributes of Monterrey Bay in California.

(c) The very challenging drive from Dompu to Soromandi and Kilo. There were anxious moments as we traversed the ravines and streams. We were hoping for the road to improve but it
seemed to get from bad to worse, deteriorating into a pedestrian trial at one point. On hindsight, we were stretching our luck. We were lucky nothing happened. The Pajero performed well. As we were in the middle of nowhere, we cooked for ourselves instant noodle for lunch near the coast and comfortably seated in Yeow Pheng's foldable chairs.

(d) It was raining when I stopped at Soromandi to ask for direction from this group of kids. The teenage girl in the picture spoke a little English and with my broken Bahasa we communicated. Soon, 2 adults joined us. They were all soaking well but it did not bother them. One of the boys, probably 8-10, was completely naked. I gave my Mt Bromo T-shirt to this boy. Couple of other boys were only in their pants. They were very friendly and helpful, telling me hati hati, be careful, as we departed for Kilo.

9. I was happy we made the trip to Sumbawa as it was a chance to see another part of Indonesia, a largely Muslim population but distinct ethnic groups. For tourists, Sumbawa is still unspoilt, but not comfortable by international standards. Sea related activities would be wonderful, like surfing, fishing, snorkeling and diving. For this reason, I suppose that's why Aman has a resort on Moyo. For those who like to explore and do not mind some discomfort, Sumbawa offers some interesting opportunities. From tourism perspective, much more can be done.

LOMBOK

1. Nov 24, Day 41: Left Melia Hotel at Nusa Dua at about 12 pm for Padangbai. Was prepared to stay the night at Padangbai and take ferry the next morning to Lombok. Along the way to Padangbai, we saw a hive of activities at one of the beaches opposite a temple. They were all dressed up for the occasion, kids included. Speaking to one of the local ladies, we had the impression it was related to a wedding ceremony.

2. Reached there at 4 pm and Li Hoon and I unanimously decided to take next ferry which was leaving at 5 pm as there was no reason to loiter at Padangbai. Other than the ferry facilities (to Lombok and the small island SE of Bali, Nusa Penida), there was a short street next to it, fronting the beach which was littered with boats, with small shops and restaurants and some small hotels nearby; really nothing much to see and do. We could see that the ferry facilities were been expanded. Also, a view of Padangbai from the departing ferry.

3. Taking the ferry was really quite easy. At the vehicle gate to the ferry area, we paid 550 000 rps (about US$60) and was waved to park the car along the road to wait for the 5 pm ferry. It arrived on time and at 5.15 we were on the way.
The vehicle deck was a quarter full and there were not many passengers. We played scrabble, read our books and dozed off a little, while the TV played loudly. We reached Lombok's Lembar port at about 9.30 pm but did not berth until about 10 pm.

4. It didnt seem that long to reach Lombok. The 5 hours passed quite quickly. Other than the half an hour or so when the ship was rolling side to side, it was a fairly smooth ride all the way.

5. We set the GPS for Sengigi beach. It was darkness most of the way and traffic was light. After passing through the sleeping Mataram, we reached Sengigi at 11pm+. We first checked Jayakarta, but it was full; apparently there was a government meeting there. Driving further north, we were happy to check into Sengigi Beach Hotel for US70 a night. We were happy to eat a packet of instant noodles, wash up and go to bed.

6. Sengigi Beach Hotel was a sprawling complex, with an adjoining villa enclave, a small but charming blue pool next to the restaurant and a fairly long beach front located in a bay. After breakfast, we strolled along the beach; beach was so so. It was early morning and there were few people on the beach. A group of young boys were playing in the water, naked. They were happy to pose for picture when we passed them again on the way back. We were followed by peddlers selling T-shirts and pushing boat services to Gili islands.

7. Behind the beach, I took over his Dad's position and played a game of table tennis with this boy.

8. We were tempted to take a boat ride to one of the Gilli islands and stay there for a night or two but decided against it. With the time saved, we reckoned we could see more of Lombok and take a ferry over and see Sumbawa. For the day, we decided to have lunch in Mataram, see the water palace and stay the night at Kuta Beach, before heading towards the ferry point to Sumbawa.

9. Near Mataram, we had our car washed by this bunch of very jovial boys for 25 000 rps (US$2.5).

10. At Mataram, we had our cheapest lunch to date, at a stall near Mataram Mall, for 16 000 rps (less than US$2) before we went looking for the Mayura Water Palace. After some circling around, we found the Palace, actually not far from Mataram Mall, along the same road. We entered through a side gate and were immediately stopped by 2 suspicious persons, one of them carrying a book asking for donation before we could enter the Palace. The book showed donations in amounts up to hundreds of thousands of rupiahs. I put down 50 000 rps (I presume they can easily add another zero later) after ascertaining that that was all that we had to pay, including guide services. The other person claimed he was a tour guide, wearing a black T-shirt with Singapore Commando logo which he said he bought in Singapore while working there a few years ago. In showing us around the palace and the Pura Meru temple next to the palace, he said that the donation would go to the renovation of the palace and temple. Lonely Planet said if pressed for entrance fee, one should only pay 1000 rps. So, I suppose we spoiled the market.

11. Built in 1744 when Lombok was part of the Balinese sultanate, there was little left of the palace, other than a big rectangular lake in a walled compound, with a floating pavilion in the middle. Apparently, this was site of a bloody battle between the Dutch and the Balinese in 1894. There were many people fishing in the artificial lake. Around the floating pavilion were interesting statues at the water edge were interesting life size statues, showing officials from various places, including Arabic and Chinese. At one end of the lake was the Pura Mera temple which was in better condition.

12. Drive to Kuta Beach in southern Lombok was fairly straightforward, passing through Praya, good road, mostly one lane either way until we were near to Kuta when the road widened to a short work-in-progress dual carriage-way. Mostly plantations and rice fields most of the way. We decided to check out Novotel Lombok Mandalika Resort.

13. Kuta is a really really small seaside town. It is known for its great white sand beaches, a surfers paradise. Passed a number of budget hotels, shops selling the usual tourists stuff and makan stalls. We saw few tourists, a couple of them on motorbikes carrying surfing boards; probably its the low season.

14. The road to Novotel led us to outside the small town, to vast expanse of mudflats on both sides with coconut trees sprouting out, and concrete stumps lining the road, cleverly raising the level of anticipation of the arriving guests. The journey was well worth it. It is a beautiful beautiful resort, with characteristic straw roofs, in warm orange colours, a clean white beach, with hills and rock structures flanking the small bay. We checked into the resort for US70 a night.


15. Sunset was sheer beauty. We watched sunset at the beach and the pool, took pictures and were just mesmerized by the views. With every passing minute, the picture changed. There and then, we decided to stay another night here.

16. Buffet dinner at the resort was accompanied by a 4 man band, playing the many popular songs that we all could relate. Cocktail party preceded dinner and it was free; a good way to get the guests to the beach. It was good party atmosphere. While dinner was still on-going, a movie screen was set up nearby, along the beach, screening a French movie.

17. Next morning, we watch 2 buffaloes, named Good and Morning, "plowing" the sand, to smooth out the many footsteps left the day before.

18. After breakfast, we took a drive eastwards towards Tanjong Aan, to see the beaches and the country side. As we traveled along, the road got from bad to worse, with more potholes, and crossed 2 wooden bridges with their doubtful conditions. After talking to a couple of locals in our broken Bahasa, we decided to keep traveling along the road to Mujur, as against backtracking, back to Kuta. After Mujur, road improved considerably. We stopped to buy a batik painting of Lombok scenery at Rembitan before reaching Kuta for lunch at Bong Cafe.

19. We didnt get to see all the beaches at and around Kuta. Other than Novotel, the area is still virgin territory; very unlike the Kuta Beach of Bali, or for that matter even when compared to Sengigi beach here in Lombok. With the new airport been built nearby, about 20 mins from Kuta we were told, and the widening of roads towards it, I would expect development would accelerate in the coming years. For those who love a quiet retreat, it is a good time to visit the Novotel resort before Kuta becomes too crowded, and its good value for money during low season.