Wednesday, May 20, 2009

HO CHI MINH CITY- DAY 22, 23 & 24

1. May 18, Day 22, we checked out of Paragon and had an early breakfast (I had porridge) in a nearby coffee shop. Interestingly it was halal and run by a woman with head covered with scarf. After she heard Sunny mentioned Nasi Goreng in her menu spoke to Sunny in Malay, probably guessing that we were Malaysian or Singaporean. She looked Malay to me.

2. At 8.30 am, we were on the road travelling along Highway 1 towards the Bovet/Moc Bai border crossing, about 160 km away. The first 20-30 km was not so easy driving, as the road was under repair and been widened on some stretches, otherwise it was a good driving all the way to the border. Along the way, we had to take a ferry across the Mekong. This was the 2nd time we crossed the Mekong by ferry; first time was when we visited Wat Phu Champasak near Pakse in Southern Laos.

3. We were to meet our Vietnamese tour guide, Nguyen The Thuan from Eviva Tours at Moc Bai on the Vietnamese side of the border crossing. As I explained in my earlier posting, under Vietnamese regulation, we were required to have a tour guide followed us throughout our tour in Vietnam. Also, after the trip was approved by the government, we were told that dates and points of entry and departure could not be changed, meaning we had to enter Vietnam on 18 May at the Bovet/Moc Bai crossing, and depart Vietnam at Tay Trang on 6 June. The night before, at Paragon Hotel, we had to reshuffle our "cargo" and made space for Thuan to join us in the car.

4. At about 11 am, we reached Bovet. We were surprised to see many casinos there on both sides of the road, in what looked like "The Strip" of Bovet. There was a Winn with font similar to Wynn and a Sund that looked like Sand. Saw a number of cars that ferried Vietnamese from across the border to Bovet carrying th word Caesar. At the border crossing point itself, we saw a stretched limo much like those in Las Vegas.
All in, I counted 9 casinos that could be seen from the main road. It is clearly big business attracting Vietnamese to Bovet for gambling. I was surprised by its scale.

5. The exit from Cambodia was a great deal more difficult than our entry at Don Krolor from Laos. We were sent from pillar to post and causing our passage to be much longer than necessary.

6. After clearing immigration, the Immigration officer directed us to the nearby customs office to clear my car. After staring at the document for some time and discussing with his colleague, they asked me to follow them to a customs counter on the entry side where he consulted a young customs officer who was probably their superior there. The officer told us that we must first see his superior at the customs office 1 km away. We promptly back tracked and went looking for the customs office. After missing it a couple of times, we eventually located it but we were told that it was lunch time and were to go back at 2 pm. With 1.5 hr to spare, we decided to see Winn and hopefully have a free lunch there. After we entered, I unthinkingly took a picture of the casino floor and was immediately told off by a staff there that camera was not allowed. In front of him, I deleted the picture taken and left the camera in the car. We did have a free lunch. It caused quite a bit of staff discussion when I asked for a beer. Beer came after 15 mins later. Just for fun, we played a game called Small Big, and between Sunny and I lost US$ 10+ (free lunch?).

7. We were back in the customs office by 2 pm and the place was warming up for work. The staff, after consulting with the Head there, told us to return to the customs counter at the border crossing to have the document endorsed and vehicle checked before returning to the customs office again for the Head to sign off. We did just that and by the time it was all done at the Cambodian side it was about 3 pm.

8. We were met by Thuan at the Vietnamese side. The checks and procedures at by the Vietnamese authorities were the most thorough that we had experienced so far in the trip. Following Thuan, we first went to the Police post at the border crossing to have the document endorsed. We then proceeded to the customs where Thuan had to present and fill up some document. A customs officer then followed us to the car outside and asked us to open up the bonnet for him to check the chassis and engine numbers. He actually looked for the numbers. We were then told to unload all the luggages in the car, carried them into the building to put through the X-ray machine for checking. When this was done, we were told to put back all the luggage back into the car and close the car for biological tests. Thuan explained that this was administered because of the spread of swine flu and every car passing through was subjected to similar checks. Concurrently, we joined the queue to clear immigration. With a very very sigh, we were through by about 4 pm, some 5 hrs after we began the process on the Cambodian side.

9. Highway 22 was a very good road, leading us all the way to HCM City, some 60-70 km away. With the delay, we were unfortunately running into the evening traffic jam. We were stuck at some stretches in the city for a long time. Contrary to our normal practice, we followed Thuan's suggestion to look for a couple of specific hotels in District 1 where parking the car would not be a problem. After circling around, we found the first one but we found out that the hotel did not have car park. By then, it was 9 pm, and we decided to have dinner instead. It was a good "steamboat" dinner at a Chinese restaurant not far away. After a few phone calls, with help from this colleague in HCM, we checked into Tan My Dinh 2 Hotel, at US$60 a night.

10. Though I had been to HCM City a number of times, the last time was August last year, I had never been struck by the number of motorcycles on the road. As the person driving the

car into HCM City, the impact was strong and instantaneous, initially at loss on how to manoeuvre the car through the mass of motorcycles and then recognised that motorcycles here were really kings of the road. There were so many of them. Lonely Planet put it at 3 m, but Thuan said that there were much more. Soon, I learnt how to float the car with the currents. I took a video of a junction while Thuan was asking for direction. I called it Motorcycle Rhapsody, and would have been great if I could put a suitable music to go with it.

10. We had 2 full days in HCM to enjoy our time as normal tourists, carrying our cameras and I carrying a small pack. Thuan joined us for most part of our jalan jalan and visits to museum. Over the 2 days, we visited the Reunification Palace (former Presidential Palace), the Ho Chi Minh City Museum and the War Remnants Museum. By and large, they were largely about the struggles of the Vietnamese people against foreign occupiers (which they called oppressors), how they had suffered and overcome great odds to emerge victorious. I can understand why such education was necessary for the younger Vietnamese. Here, you see Sunny and I at the front gate of the Reunification Palace. The tank (a T59 Soviet tank) you see here was one of the 2 tanks that crashed through the gate on 30 Apr 75 when the Vietcong forces captured Saigon. We took a picture on the roof top. Our tour guide, Thuan, stood in the middle. In the war room, Sunny suggested that I showed him what a commander do in a war room (for fun of course).

11. At the HCM City Museum, it was more about Vietnamese struggles against the regime in South Vietnam and the US forces, especially the roles played by people in South Vietnam. The Museum also displayed various ancient artifacts. We found this rather interesting.

12. The War Remnants Museum was specifically dedicated to Vietnam War and had been in existence since 1975. The space outside showed various US equipment captured, eg. M48 tank, F5 aircraft etc. The explanation boards were well written; good English, no spelling mistakes. This is the picture of General Vo Nguyen Giap (pronounced as Zhap) in 1971 who commanded the Vietnamese forces during the Vietnam War. Thuan said that he is 95, alive and live in Hanoi. He also commanded the forces that achieved victory over the French forces at Dien Bien Phu in 1953. After Ho Chi Minh, he was probably the next Hero.

13. I found one of the charts particularly interesting. It showed the size of US forces and allies in Vietnam during the war. At its peak, US had about half a million troops in Vietnam. By 1970, after Nixon came to power, the level of forces started to decline, especially after 71, when the US was under pressure from increasing casualty count began a process which they called "Vietnamisation of the war" and shifted its operations to Strategic Bombings of North Vietnam and the HCM Trails. It sort of reminded me of what's going on in Iraq right now.

14. Outside, along the roads, there were pink banners of HCM. We figured it was about the celebration of HCM's birthday, which falls on 19 May (hey, another Taurus). Its his 119th birthday.

15. We visited a couple of places which we found interesting. One was Ben Thanh market, selling all kinds of thing, well patronised by tourists, supposedly a must see destination for tourists. Here, we replenished our stock of sour plums and between Sunny and I finished a durian.

16. We also dropped in to visit the Notre Dame Cathedral Post Office, built between 1886 and 1891. With its beautiful structure of glass canopy and iron frame, this building was worth the visit.
In there, they have the most beautiful telephone booths I have ever seen.
As we walked the street, we passed by many beautiful colonial buildings, some still very impressive, some somewhat run down. This one impressed me, and it turned out that it was used by the Police force. Like our Central Police Station (now MICA building), this could be turned into a world class hotel, especially with its excellent location.

17. Along the streets, as we walked, we could see that Vietnamese are hardworking and enterprising people. At the corner, there were people providing service to repair electrical parts. Another one provided motorcycle repair services and pump for inflating the tyres.
It was not surprising that Vietnam, with the hard driving people it has, has achieved impressive economic growth over the last decade.

18. On the right is the hotel we stayed in for 3 nights, Tan My Dinh 2 Hotel. Here you could see Thuan and I relaxing over beer after a day of hard walking. Sunny took the picture. Will be off to Dalat today, a hill resort, known for its good weather, popular with the French when they were here and now with local honeymooners. I was last there in 96, when JTC with Natsteel and LKN were exploring the prospects of developing a resort there. The idea fizzled out after the 97 financial crisis. Sunny and I hope to play a round of golf there.


  1. Can try sending a post card to yourself from the different countries you visited. We did that when we were in HCM back then. Looking at the post cards now, it brought back fond memories.

  2. Congratulations for getting into HCM. Very well done. Well written blog, sure feel like being there with you guys -enjoying. Don't forget to toot for safety. Drive safe. William

  3. Thank you Dawn and William for the suggestions and advices. Sunny and I do not like the use of toot, but we know it cannot be helped in Vietnam and are now using it quite a bit. Use of toot is to announce to others on the road that you are there, not because one is angry like in Singapore. The other road users will adjust based on where you are heading. This applies to pedestrians too. Walk slowly across the road, no sudden movements and the cars and motorcycles will manoeuvre round you as you move across the roead. In one sense, they are very polite people.

  4. If you go to Hoi An next, see whether you can get a room at this hotel: Ha An Hotel ( Edie and I really enjoyed our 4 night stay at the Ha An hotel, and it's very reasonably priced too.

    And also make sure to try out this restaurant called Mango Rooms in the Old Town. Also most definitely the best restaurant in Hoi An.

  5. Will be in Hoi An tomorrow night and will look out for them.